Circular walk round Ozleworth Manor

Three mile circular walk through one of the quietest and most beautiful parts of the Cotswolds.

I am not going to bother to write about the pub that served us lunch this time, Yes it fed us as such, but the food was just fodder and nothing worth writing about.  I'd rather talk about the countryside we travelled, though I doubt I will be able to do justice to the beauty that surrounded us as we walked a valley floor thick with wild garlic, primroses, cowslips, bluebells and dandelions.  (I mention the dandelions because they added a deep depth of yellow that contrasted wonderfully with the delicate white flowers of the wild garlic).
  

Wild  garlic in abundance

We were visiting Ozleworth, which I guess would be classified as a hamlet if it didn't have a church.  Ozldeworth stands  18.5 miles south of Gloucester and 20 miles south west of Cirencester.
Apparently there was a time when a large community lived in Ozleworth valley, working on the mills powered by the Little Avon River - now all that's left to suggest this land was once quite heavily populated is just a small row of cottages, a manor house and a small Norman church.
Actually that suited us well - we chose this walk because we wanted to get away from the Easter traffic, holiday makers and all that Bank Holidays represent.
We couldn't have chosen a more perfect place.  It was so silent that not even the gentle drone of a light aircraft flying overhead could be heard.  Only song birds and the buzzing of bees broke the silence.  It seemed  apt that the name Ozleworth was originally the name for an enclosure frequented by blackbird as there were certainly loads of blackbirds here, woodpeckers too.
 

Photographs don't do the valley justice

This walk, which took us down rutted tracks, bridleways and the edge of established woodland, through which a small stream flowed gently through the landscape. It was so picturesque  that Uncle John, Pythius and I kept stopping to take in the view, and listen to the silence.
 

..and the sky was blue - the weather fine.

As to directions, let me just say that you start and end at map reference ST792934, which offers space to park the car besides the road in the middle of nowhere. A waysign points to a wooden gate on the left which directs you to the Church bridle path.
Take that path keeping a well constructed (smart/posh) metal fence on the right until you come to a metal kissing gate, that lets you into a field, and down past the remaining cottages of Ozleworth.  Several sheep and their lambs were there when we walked that way, so Pythius was firmly fixed on his lead  until we got through and onto another bridle path on the left.This took on a glorious circular path, so clearly marked with yellow arrows we didn't get lost, eventually finding ourselves back at that kissing gate again. This is a walk that should not be hurried - the Ozleworth countryside is too glorious to pass through at speed.
Pythius says:
What fun we had, gosh what a lucky dog I am, even Helen joined me in the stream now and again, while Uncle John watched the little black tadpoles with waggly tails swimming round and round in circles in the shadows under the little wooden bridge.  I think this was the most beautiful walk I have ever shared with Uncle John and Helen.  I won't comment on the pub, because as Helen remarked, it wasn't that special. BUT the walk - well it was out of this world!  Helen says we can return in the autumn when the colours are changing. I'd like that.

We both played in the stream!

The Gustav Holst Way & The Craven Arms

The Gustav Holst Way & Craven Arms

With some excitement Pythius and I handed in our completed manuscript for Paws Along the Way to our publisher Jon Carpenter, Wychwood Press, last week. Now we wait for him to contact us, checking this, that and the other He has very exacting standards and will not tolerate sloppy work, or silly mistakes - which is what makes the books he publishes so special.
To celebrate this moment, Uncle John and I took Pythius to Humblebee Wood, which lies about two miles from Winchcombe. This wood was walked by Tolkien just before he wrote Lord of the Rings, which  intrigued me.  I imagined  it would be filled with gnarled old trees and harbour an air of mystery. It didn't. The trees were spindly and without character and there was nothing mystical about it that could be linked with  Lord of the Rings.  The only positive thing about this walk was the breathtaking view of Winchcombe when seen from high on the hill at the edge of Humblebee Wood

Humblebee wood and cottage at top of hill.

We were about to turn and find a pub where we could have lunch when I spotted it!  A NEW WAYSIGN,  and when I say NEW,  I mean just that! A NEW WAY  that we had not explored and even worse,  included it in our new book about Ways that Jon Carpenter is processing even as I write.

The new pale green Way sign for Gustav Holst Way

I think it is called Sod's Law!  We  scoured the maps while working on Paws Along the Way, attempting to include every Way that crossed Oxfordshire and the Cotswold's - then a new one creeps up on us just a week after the book is finished.

The walk, named after the composer Gustav Holst, is 35 miles long and cut into chunks of 6 to 8 miles each. It begins at Cranham which represents this great composer's childhood and concludes in Wych Rissington where he worked later in his life. The walk was devised by Brian Carvell when he was a Trustee of the Holst Birthplace Museum.  Apparently the walk will be formally opened later in the year, once all the signs are in place.

Obviously we will explore this walk and tell you more about it once it is established. Actually Uncle John and I are rather looking forward to walking this Way with the sound of the Planets singing in our heads as we follow in Gustav Holst's footsteps.

Having returned to Winchcombe after our three mile walk to Humblebee Wood and back, we drove to The Craven Arms, a 16th century Inn nestling in a backstreet of the charming little village of Brockhampton, near Cheltenham.   And what a find it proved to be.  We were served by the charming Lucy who made Pythius comfortable immediately,

The charming Lucy  at the Craven Arms looks after Pythius.

We ordered baguettes which were Delicious and stuffed full of freshly sliced ham and mustard. It is one of those lovely little Cotswold's pubs that also offers its guests a beautiful garden in which to sit and admire the view. Perhaps we would have  done that if it had not been so cold and the fire in the main bar so welcoming.

Pythius says:  The walk to Humblebee Wood was uphill all the way, which Border collies like me can cope with, but Helen and Uncle John were struggling a little as we progressed to the top of the hill.  The view, however, was stunning- even I could appreciate that.
 I am not sure why they both got into such a flap when they noticed a  new way sign, but they did.
The pub was great, that lovely Lucy kept coming over to check I had everything I needed... what more could a chap ask for?

The Feathered Nest Cotswold Inn

The Feathered Nest Cotswold Inn - Nether Westcote

The Feathered Nest Cotswold Inn at Nether Westcote, that stands mid-way between Stow-on-the-Wold and Burford, looks rather like the house that Jack built from outside, but when you walk through the door into the first of many small intimate areas all beautifully furnished, it is obvious this is one of the most stylish pubs for miles around.  And the view!  Gosh, even on a cold grey day when the sun hides behind the clouds, it is stunning. The inn looks down on the Evenlode Valley with its undulating landscape scattered with dwellings built from the honey coloured Cotswold stone that marks this area out as both enchanting and unforgettable. Some describe this view as one of the most beautiful in the country.

The Feathered Nest Inn, Nether Westcote  - Unforgettable!

As Auntie Liz had badly bruised a toe last week, the long "Paws" walk we usually enjoy after a good meal every Thursday was not possible. This was unfortunately as The Feathered Nest is close to the Diamond Way, The Oxfordshire Way and the D'Arcy Dalton Way. There is also a public footpath close to the Inn which leads you right down to the bottom of the valley and Westcote Brook - what more could anyone ask? Having discovered just what a gem this pub is - we will return as soon as Auntie Liz can walk comfortably again, and enjoy one of these walks, which I will write up soonest.

Friendly staff - great beer!

Cosy, intimate and friendly interior,.

Dogs are welcome at the Feathered Nest providing they are happy to place their paws under tables in the second level bar or outside in the garden.  A stunning (and when I say stunning  - I really do mean stunning) water bowl is offered immediately. What Pythius didn't expect was a "Doggie Bag" too, but I will let him tell you all about that.

Home cooked Cotswold pasty - delicious

When Auntie Liz ordered a Cotswold pasty for her lunch she was warned all the food is freshly cooked and it would take at least 20 minutes - which as far as we were concerned was fine.  The atmosphere was so relaxing, the wood burning fire so warm and snug. the staff so friendly, we would have been happy to have waited even longer.
Our food (I ordered fish and chips) arrived served on rustic wooden plates and was absolutely delicious.
Gosh what a terrific lunch!The beer was great too - we drank a local Hook Norton Brew.
This inn has become so popular, do phone and book a table if you aim to visit during the weekend.

Pythius says:
I still can't believe it. When we were settling at our table and I was adjusting my paws so that they were comfortable,  the lovely Amanda Timmer, who runs the inn with her husband Tony, came up to me, patted my head, talked to me for a few moments then handed me a carrier bag filled with "Doggie Goodies".

Pythius inspects the contents of his Green Fields Doggie Bag.

Apparently they are all part of the Green Fields range of elegant and wholesome dog products. One was a spray which makes my coat shine and also makes me smell sweet when I have rolled in things I shouldn't roll in, and another was a jummy bag of gourmet doggie biscuits.Another was a small bottle of shampoo. I have often been given doggie bags containing left overs from Helen's lunch, but NEVER, EVER have I been presented with MY VERY OWN DOGGIE BAG. 
What a lucky dog I am.

Fossebridge and The Inn at Fosbridge - 2 Mile circular walk

Fossebridge - The Inn at Fossebridge - 2 mile circular walk

The Inn at Fossebridge, as its name suggests, nestles besides a bridge in a dip on the A429 (Fosse Way) that passes through  the Coln Valley, just three miles out of Northleach, four miles from Bibury or 6 miles north of Cirencester. Its close proximity to Chedworth means it is also but three miles away from one of the most spectator Roman Villas in the country.

The Inn at Fossebridge

It's no wonder that the Romans chose to settle in this area - even during the winter months the Coln Valley displays a breathtaking and haunting beauty, which remains gloriously unspoiled.
The Inn dates back to the Georgian period and stands in 4 acres of a mature garden in which a small lake sits in the centre.  The river Coln acts as one of the garden's boundaries.

The Inn's glorious garden and lake

 Describing The Inn at Fossebridge without resorting to superlatives is impossible. This remarkable inn is not only one of the most friendly establishments I have ever visited, it is professionally run too. It is indeed a true country retreat, offering  guests a chance to step back in time, enjoy old fashioned hospitality, and fine food. Auntie Liz and I were much amused to note that there is an old sign above the main bar DATING BACK TO 1945 advertising DAVID CAMERON BREWERS! I wonder if our esteemed leader knows that there was a brewery of this name?
 

David the friendly barman

It goes without saying that Pythius was made really welcome, and that a large bowl of cold water is placed by the side of the bar for visiting canines.  He was allowed to roam the inn's lovely grounds too. If I was award wining stars, this inn would get five out of five.
The  walk was so easy - having walked round the grounds and admired the swans, with our back to the inn, we used the left hand side exit from its grounds that led to a minor road.  Having crossed the road we followed the directions of a waymarker and climbed a wooden stile that led to a large field. This is really all a walker needs to know.  This two mile walk is well signed throughout, not just with waysigns but with well worn paths that suggest hundreds of feet have walked this way often.
Strangely, although we were passing an undulating terrain, the walk seldom presented an uphill challenge, nothingwas strenuous, which means that providing walkers can manage to climb the wooden stiles (some of which are quite high) it is an easy walk.  When the roofs of a few houses finally come into view, you will arrive at the last stile on the way out. Having climbed it, you find yourself in a grassy passageway which suggests you are walking through someones garden.  Worry not, you are simply taking a short green lane that leads to a minor road. Place the dog on the lead at this point and on reaching the road, turn left, walking but a few yards to a waysign on the left which takes you back the way you came, but on a quite different path, and this time  alongside the small stream that trickles through the valley.  Gosh how the dog loved the stream, with its crystal clear bubbling water.

Unspoiled countryside

As with the first path, so many feet have travelled this track that waymarkers are not really necessary.
The path eventually leads you to a large meadow and a stile in the far left hand corner which takes you onto the A429 and just a stones throw from the inn, which stands on the left.
There were no livestock in the fields the day we walked, but I am told that sheep graze here during the summer months, which means there will be times when the dog must be kept under close control.

Pythius - Border collie - having fun

Pythius says:
What can I say?  Like Helen I rate both the pub and the walk amongst the best ever.  The pub was so friendly, the grounds simply glorious and the walk - well that was out of this world.  I was exhausted when I got home, but I was also a very, very happy dog.

Lechlade River Walk - aprox 3 miles (perhaps a little less)

Lechlade River Walk

Lechlade is one of those idyllic little Cotswold towns that is still firmly set in the middle of the 20th Century. It is also a gloriously watery place as its here that the River Coln and Leach join the Thames and where tourists can make river trips on the luxury Thames launch Inglesham throughout the summer season.
The launch takes its name from a nearby hamlet where the 13th century Church of John the Baptist can be found.
I mention this church because by making a short  detour you can incorporate a visit to this remarkable unspoilt building, which I promise is well worth the effort. 



Look at the layers of wall paintings! Aren't they amazing?

 This is the church that William Morris saved from decay, and which is now in the care of the Churches Preservation Trust.
It was the layers of wall paintings that date from the 13th to the 19th century,that intrigued me most - the 17th century box pews and pulpit are pretty impressive too.

We were also  thrilled to discover a Saxon carving of Madonna and child. The fact that this church has remained virtually unaltered since the early 16th century makes for a never to be forgotten experience. Pythius sensed it was a special place that had to be respected too.

But you don't get to the church until you are half way through the walk which begins by taking a path to the right, having walked along Thanes street past the Black Cat Tea rooms and the amazing Christmas Shop that remains open throughout the year. A sign on the left hand side of the road indicates that you have reached a path that will take you to the Round House, River Thames and Canal, all reached by taking this narrow secluded little path that runs alongside a small stream, and into a series of meadows, linked by some of the wackiest wooden stiles I have ever seen.



One of many wacky wooden stiles along the way

Having passed through the meadows we followed a track to the Round House, which as its name suggests is in fact round! By turning left having reached the river and the Round House, we were able to cross a delightful little wooden bridge spanning the Thames.
Unfortunately Pythius did find the exit from this bridge rather difficult. He did eventually  manage it, but only because Uncle John encouraged him to do one of his impressive doggie jumps that have got him out of trouble many times.
This is where we made a detour across the meadow to the right and visited the church, before returning to the river, where Pythius was able to run up and down the bank and dive in and out of the water as we headed back to Lechlade and the Riverside pub where we stopped for lunch. And yes Pythius was allowed to join us for lunch. This pub is very busy during the summer months as you are able to sit outside enjoy all that the River Thames  offers, including swans, ducks and loads of boats.
One of the most memorable things we encountered on this walk were snowdrops.
An abundance of snowdrops decorated the river banks, the church yard and several other places along the way. They filled our hearts with joy as they signified the beginning of Spring. A truly wonderful sight.

The first signs of spring

Pythius says:

Yes, Spring is on its way, I can feel it, smell it even.  This lovely walk enabled me to run free, dart in and out of the water and visit a very impressive old building, without bumping into a single hazard, for there were no sheep, horses or cows in the fields and the river bank offered loads of places where I could jump in without finding myself in deep water.  BUT (Yes, there is always a BUT) during the summer months much of this changes as livestock can be found grazing several of the fields we walked this week.








Pythius has booked a holiday!

                                                         Pythius has booked his holiday!

Pythius has already packed his suitcase

Now that Pythius and I have completed 35 chapters of our next  book Paws Along the Way, which will be published late Spring, we decided to organise our 2011 holiday.
Obviously we had to find a dog-friendly place where Pythius could run free and enjoy all the doggie activities he has come to expect over the years, which include dog-friendly beaches, wood and river walks and a garden he can run around in before going to bed.

We finally decided to book a luxury dog-friendly cottage at Helsbury Park, North Cornwall, which is close to Bodmin Moor and a spectacular South West Coastal Path, that will turn "walkies" into a real adventure. The cottages stand alongside a 100 acres of back garden, so there is space in abundance for everyone.
As the accommodation has a five star rating, and provides me with the chance to kick off my shoes and put my feet up  in front of a roaring fire, or wallow in a steaming bath after a long dog walk to the river and back, it offers absolutely everything that humans need too.

Spacious kitchens and dining areas make these cottages special.



As this holiday will mean I have time to enjoy some real cooking in a  farmhouse kitchen using fresh local ingredients - I'm really looking forward to creating dishes that call for a generous garnish of Cornish cream.  I am also looking foward to cooking with  freshly caught local fish.

Pythius says:

What can I possibly say, except that I am really, really excited.  We won't be going on holiday until  the autumn, but that doesn't matter, it gives me something wonderful to look forward to.

Look at that wonderful space!

Imagine being able to  open the back door onto all that space, with a river not far away. And the food too - apparently I can order special doggie food if I want to - though I doubt that Helen will allow that as she insists I stick to my Butchers Superior dog food, which I must admit is delicious.

As the cottage can accommodate quite a lot of people I am hoping we can persuade Auntie Liz, Auntie Kate and perhaps Uncle John to come too.
Gosh isn't this exciting, particularly as Dog Walkie maps are supplied, which means that the girls won't get lost (as they usually do) when we begin exploring.
Apparently Helen got the information on Helsbury Park by going to: http://www.helsburypark.co.uk/

Minster Lovell, The Old Swan and Minster Lovell Hall

Minster Lovell, The Old Swan and Minster Lovell Hall
(Just a mile there and back)
There were patches of frost on the grass and a chill in the air, but the sun was out and the sky was blue, so Auntie Liz, Pythius and I set out for a Paws walk. This time we chose Minster Lovell, an idylic little village that stands on the edge of the Cotswolds, three miles west of Witney off the A44.

The Old Swan Minster Lovell

We began with lunch at The Old Swan, which I can honestly say was really impressive. We had chosen roast beef with traditional trimmings - and got just that and all  freshly cooked with crunchy roast potatoes, home made Yorkshire pudding individual dishes of cauliflower cheese, roast carrots and loads of green vegetables, including Brussels Sprouts.  The meat was served medium, with just enough pink to get the gastric juices going.  It was so good that after declaring our joy, Auntie Liz and I ate in silence, savouring every mouthful. Yes - it was one of the best meals I have had for some considerable time. As it was served with Brakespear beer it was doubly good.

Pythius was not ignored, we were informed that both gravy biscuits and water were available for visiting canines in the bar area set out beneath an attractive fresco of a happy dog. What a nice touch.

We were also impressed by the wood fire in this glorious 15th century inn, which not only added a fragrant aroma to the bar area where we ate, but added dancing colour too. 

Our walk was not long, but it was delightful as, on leaving the Old Swan (having been given permission to leave our car in their car park) we crossed the road and with our backs to the pub, walked left for just a few steps towards a gate that gave us access to the village cricket field and the River Windrush.

Crossing the cricket field, we led Pythius to the river, where he had a wonderful time splashing about, even though the water must have been very cold.

We then continued through the adjoining field, which was VERY, VERY muddy and on to the ruins of Minster Lovell Hall, one time home of Lord  Lovell who is thought to have died of starvation in an underground room, where he was hiding having been declared guilty of treason after the battle of Bosworth. Built in 1435
these ruins are like none other as you will realise if you visit. They are mysterious and beautiful in a strange haunting way that is only experienced when old Cotswold stone is allowed to decay in an unspoiled landscape without intervention.

The ruins of Minster Lovell Hall



So that's it today folks, I guess we didn't walk more than a mile, to the hall and back - though Pythius clocked up at least three miles and returned with more mud on him than I would have wished.  It was a great winter walk nevertheless.

Pythius has his say:

Doggie pit stop



Just look at this picture folks - have you ever seen anything like it?  A refreshment stop for dogs in The Old Swan, and in the bar area too. I couldn't believe it when I saw not just a big bowl of water but gravy bones too. As Helen knows they are my favourite snack (not that she lets me eat between meals very often), but when she does these are the ones I choose.
The walk was not long but I certainly enjoyed darting in and out of the river, though the ruins of the old hall frighten me somewhat as I can sense ghosts when I go there, and they are sometimes very scary!

The Mount Inn, Stanton

All the walks for our next book Paws Along the Way have been walked now, so Pythius and I are coping with the difficult bit, which is to check and double check that we have got them right and haven't missed anything important. This often means walking the walk again.
Our quest today was to check the parish church, The Church of St Michael and All Angels, at Stanton which dates back to the 12th century. It is here, at the north west end of the nave, several bench ends are deeply ringed by the dog chains of the sheepdogs, brought to the church by their masters. On my previous visit I forgot to take a photograph of these ends.  I rectified that today, though if I am really truthful, Pythius was not as enthusiastic about a photo shoot with him sitting by these benches as I was - as you can see from the  look on his face.


This story fascinated me, imagine being able to take your dog to a church service with you.  When speaking to the publican Karl Bason who runs the local pub The Mount Inn about our reason for visiting Stanton, he explained that they often brought their sheep in too  Imagine that!!

Apparently the rich folk congregated at one side of the church
and the shepherds and their flocks the other. Gosh it must have been both smelly and noisy.

Pythius' lead on the bench end



Pythius not very happy about the  photo shoot.



    Our visit to the Mount Inn was all I expected it to be.  This is a Donnington's pub, which is why you will spot the little beer barrel on the waysign leading through the church yard,  as this delightful Cotswold  brewery has a  62 mile way named after it which links its pubs in a circular walks. This means you can walk from one Donnington pub to another, stopping to enjoy a pint of their BB along the way.

The Mount Inn, is one such pub. 

If you are lucky enough to arrive at The Mount Inn when the church clock chimes noon on a winter's day, as we did, you get to sit by its roaring log fire, or choose a seat by the far window, which overlooks the village of Stanton and surrounding district.

But people don't just flock to this  remarkable pub for the fire and the view, they visit because the moment you walk through the door you feel at home and welcome. Pythius was made particularly welcome. Indeed he was even offered the chance to sit in the resident dog's basket by the fire, having refreshed himself with the water bowl for dogs by the main door. He declined actually, preferring to place his paws under our table because he knows a chap should never soil another chap's bed.

Karl and Pip Baston - The Mount Inn

  As you can see from the photo of the lovely couple that run this inn, Karl is the chef and Pip runs front of the house. Together, with their staff, they generate a happy, relaxed atmosphere which makes visitors feel at home even if they arrive (as we did) with muddy boots, which we decided to remove at the door before going inside.  The food is great, offering visitors a chance to enjoy a drink and lunch for about £10, which Karl believes is fair price, offering guests a well cooked meal at a reasonable price - and yes - the food  really delicious. As Karl sources all his food locally, it is doubly good.

The Mount Inn stands alongside The Cotswold Way, and is the perfect place to start or end a walk. The view from the pub is breathtaking and the walks as long or as short as you want them to be.  Only one snag for dog walkers - horses.  As we passed through the village we met up with more than half a dozen horse riders and on the walk along the Cotswold Way, even more.  But providing you keep your dog firmly on the lead when you hear the sound of horses hooves, all will be well.   

Pythius has his say:

I have to admit I am not always happy about Helen's photo shoot ideas - tying me to a church bench  was not one of her best ideas and I let her know that.  However all was forgiven when we entered the Mount Inn.  What a pub this is - gosh how welcome I was made. And to be offered the resident dog's bed by the fire, now that  really was something to shout about.  But how could I possibly use another fellow's bed. That wouldn't be right, besides I rather like placing my paws under the table.

The Lamb & Flag, Hailey

A short winter walk through Community Wood
The Lamb & Flag, Hailey, Oxfordshire
We walked about a mile
Now the white stuff has vanished we are able to visit some of our favourite pubs. This week we chose The Lamb and Flag, Hailey, a glorious little country pub situated in the middle of a very attractive little village about two miles north of Witney.

There were three pubs in Hailey once, now only the Lamb and Flag remains.
The worn flagstones in the main bar bear witness to the countless feet that have walked into this homely little 17^th century pub over the years. The many photographs of village football and cricket teams that have used this pub – some dating back to 1929 – suggest it has served the community for some considerable time.

It was good to see that Tom the barman was on duty when we called this week, he is one of those lovely people who remembers the names of his customers and even what they would like to drink. He loves dogs too, which always pleases Pythius. Dogs do like to be recognised and admired by kindly people like Tom, who offer him a bowl of water, and even put extra logs onto the fire to ensure he is warm enough.



The lane to the woods.





The Lamb and Flag



The food is all home cooked and tasty, I enjoyed a pork chop and Auntie Liz tucked into a steaming hot bowl of lamb stew flavoured with Rosemary – these meals were reasonably priced and tasted delicious. Nothing fancy of course, because it is not that kind of pub – everything is basic and of high quality - so what more could we ask for. The other customers eating lunch appeared to be enjoying their meals too.







On leaving the pub we turned left and followed the main road through the village until we arrived at a sign pointing left for the Community Wood. This lovely little wood, which can be found just a short way down a green lane flanked on both sides by hedgerow and trees, was created in 2003 by volunteers of the Wychwood Project. It is as one of Oxfordshire’s Golden Jubilee Wildlife Spaces, and has been planted with a glorious mix of trees and shrubs native to the area, that were once found in the ancient Wychwood Forrest. 



Mud &  leaves  in the lane



 



We ambled round and through tree lined paths that weave their way through the woods, and Pythius leapt and danced around this glorious space. Yes, it was slightly muddy, but everywhere is at this time of the year – but that’s my only negative comment.. Everything else was perfect.



Pythius is having a bit of a rest.



               
                                           


Pythius says:

How good it was to get out and about again - it seems months since I have run free, followed the scent of Mr Badger, and rolled in  oodles of mud.

th                                   

Thame The James Fig Pub The Pheonix Trail

Thame – The James Figg pub – The Phoenix Trail
(This walk can take you 7 miles in both directions should you wish)
　
I guess I had better admit right from the start that The Phoenix Trail will not be included in my top ten walks. It follows the route of a disused railway line, that once connected Oxford to the market town of Thame and Princes Risborough. You reach it by travelling from Nelson Street, Thame, which leads to Windmill Road and the trail, or going to Thame Park Road, Thame.
The railway line through Thame remained open until 1991, and then was converted into a cycle and pedestrian route which means that it is straight – straight – straight, with only a few gentle curves, and you have to return the way you came.
 To be really honest it is not the most scenic route either, as the first half a mile from Thame passes factories and industrial estates, but once the countryside emerges from behind the hedgerow things improve slightly.



One of the many seats along the way



 

The one fascinating thing about this seven mile route is the collection of 30 sculptures built by furniture students from Thame’s Rycotewood College, that are placed along the way – many of which are weird and wacky seats, designed to reflect the trail’s railway heritage and provide walkers with a place to rest.







We met a cat along the way



We walked just 2 ½ half miles along the path and then returned the way we had come. It was a chilly day, yet we encountered more people and cyclists on this route than any other we have ever walked. We even discovered a tabby cat sitting on the route, just by the footpath leading to Kingsey on the left hand side, watching those who walked past. This cat puzzled Pythius somewhat, particularly when it hissed as we passed. The cats he lives with never hiss.

Pythius inspects the sculpture

The pub we chose was the James Figg, which stands in the centre of Thame, opposite the Market Square, which must rate as one of the most dog-friendly pubs in the country. Pythius was asked if he would like a bowl of water (which was delivered immediately) and was even offered a dried pig’s ear to keep him munching while Uncle John and I ordered our lunch.

The James Figg is a proper pub, which is why I like it so much and as it’s a free house there’s always a great assortment of local real ales, and a warm welcome to all that enter. Uncle john and I chose Purity Brewery's Mad Goose, a bright coppery brew that comes with a lingering dry finish. A perfect lunchtime drink actually.
The food is great too, because although the menu is basic, each dish is cooked to order and garnished with care. I have eaten there often and never been disappointed.  

Uncle John & Pythius at the pub

Pythius has his say

The James Figg

Helen is right, this was not a walk that will be remembered with joy. To be honest it was dull, dull, dull, mainly because as we entered the Trail, Helen noticed there was a sign requesting that dogs should be kept on their leads! So – I had to do five miles on the lead! Not good. The cat did amuse me somewhat - how strange to see a moggy just sitting there on the side of the trail. and how strange that he should hiss at me as I rather like cats. It  obviously didn't know that.

The pub with its warm log fire and free pig's ears for visiting dogs was great.. I was treated like a real customer and there was loads of room for  me to place my paws under the table. But the walk? No not the best. I just hate being on a lead all the time as Helen knows only too well.

Old Sodbury circular walk - The Dog Inn - Distance 2 1/2 miles along the Cotswold Way



Pythius waiting to leave the car



Old Sodbury circular walk – The Dog Inn – Cotswold Way
Two and a half miles


Our drive to Old Sodbury, where we began our two and a half circular walk to Little Sodbury and back  along the Cotswold Way, was far longer than usual. This caused Pythius to become slightly agitated by the time we stopped the car. A half an hour's drive to our destination suits him well – any more than that causes him to fret. When we did let him out of the car however, having crossed the road opposite The Dog Inn, towards a farm yard that leads to the Cotswold Way, he soon cheered up. He could smell the countryside and sense the wonders of beautiful scenery that surrounded him.


Old Sodbury is situated in South Gloucestershire, 13 miles from Tetbury on the A432.
This circular walk is easy, for although the actual walk winds through woods, an orchard, meadows and fields, it is so well signed posted, that it is impossible to get lost. You will find waysigns  pointing out the Cotswold  Way posted at every twist and turn along the way.

The 11th century church



The Cotswold Way



                                            
Our first stop was the  13th century medieval church, St John the Baptist, which sits on the top of a hill, and when viewed from the foot of the  hill looks as if it is growing out of the very earth surrounding it. A seat strategically placed beside the church wall provides walkers with a chance to stop and relax for a moment as they absorb the view over the village and to the hills beyond.
After walking through the churchyard and crossing the road that leads to the village school and a short enclosed path you reach a grassy area, then an uphill woodland path which eventually leads to the double ramparts of a fascinating bronze age to Iron Age hill fort.



Pythius explores the Hill Fort

             



Signs all the way



Pass through the fort, enjoying the sensation of walking over a historical spot and you will encounter more woodland and eventually an orchard, that leads to a minor road. The waysigns will direct you to the right and after about 300 yards, point you to the left and a series of fields all linked by metal kissing gates that twist back to the hill on which the church stands. There were signs throughout the walk requesting walkers to keep their dogs on a lead. We obeyed (mostly) but admit that when we found ourselves in a field free of livestock, we let the little fellow run free.



The Dog Inn



The 16^th century Dog Inn lived up to its name, for not only is it dog-friendly, but a real ale named Dog Best was available too.



                                                       

Even the beer is named after the dog!

                                              

This pub looks quite austere when viewed from the road, but once you enter the main bar, with its beams trimmed with hops and illuminated with sparkling lights, you know you are in for a treat.
The food is amazing, and far cheaper than we expected. Indeed at the time of writing, Uncle John and I both enjoyed a delicious main course that cost just £4.99 each.
It’s a family owned pub, which may account for the friendly service and the buzzy atmosphere. Certainly an establishment we will visit again whenever we are in the area.